Dominica - Introduction

  
Roseau
Roseau Market
Map of Dominica

Map of Dominica

Ref: dominicaMap

Rob and Gio invited us to visit them in Dominica. They tempted us with tales of snorkelling, hiking, diving, bird watching, warm nights, lovely people, and welcoming hosts. They did not lie. It is wonderful visiting a place where one knows people, especially people who are involved with the local culture and people. We had an instant knowledge of Friday night BBQs, fernwood mask carvers, painters, bars, restaurants, hikes, snorkelling spots, dive companies, corporate car rentals, ... and hosts who were more than willing to take time off work to lead us to the places that are harder to find.

Looking East from Rob and Gio's Balcony

Looking East from Rob and Gio's Balcony

Ref: 2007C_0028
Rob and Gio live up the hill from downtown Roseau. Their house has spectacular views over the surrounding mountains and ocean. Sitting on their balcony as the sun came up or set was always relaxing (especially with a rum punch). The bird life in the backyards their balcony overlooked kept me busy with binoculars even during meals.

Rob organized two major hikes for us, one to Boiling Lake and one from Delices to the Grand Bay road.

Boiling Lake, Alan, Lisa, and Rob

Boiling Lake, Alan, Lisa, and Rob

Ref: 2007C_0457
The Boiling Lake hike is by far the more strenuous. It is one continuous StairMasterTM workout for 12 km. Dominica adds its own unique twist with rain soaked steps and wind gusts strong enough to knock one down.

It is also a hike that one should do if one can.

It is good to have a guide for the first time - the hard bits are finding the trail head and knowing the exit from Desolation Valley - neither impossible without a guide, some route finding skills, patience, and confidence.

We had Rob as our guide - he takes all of his guests there if they are capable of going. Other guides can be found in the town of Laudat.

Boiling Lake trail is a good place to see Blueheaded Hummingbirds and occasionally Jaco Parrots (we didn't see or hear any). We did track down the Rufuous-Throated Solitaire, a.k.a., Mountain Whistler. They are much more easily heard than seen.

Rain and wind (not hurricane style, but normal style) in Dominica are not like in Canada. The rain is warm; the wind and air is at 100% humidity so its cooling effect is small. Hypothermia is not much of an issue. Using a camera is.

The Group

The Group

Ref: 2007C_0761
For the Delices Hike one needs a guide or lots of time and patience for route finding. The trail starts in a maze of agricultural tracks then disappears under debris from the recent hurricane. The other huge advantage of a guide, especially one like Octave Joseph, is he knows the flora, fauna, area, history, and people. We learned at lot from Ocatve, unfortunately, the scientific names of the plants have escaped my mind.

The Delices Hike follows an old cross-island trail that was used for commerce before there were roads.

Octave and his wife Rahel have a small cottage, The Hide-out, that they rent. It can sleep 6 people. It would make a nice base from which to see the south end Dominica, especially, if one hired Octave as a guide.

Azure Vase Sponge

Azure Vase Sponge

Ref: 2007C_1018
Another attraction of Dominica is the underwater life. Dominica is rated as one of the top dive sites of the world. It is especially known for its small life - such as, frogfish, scorpionfish, and seahorses. We spent many hours snorkelling and went scuba diving 5 times.

The first thing we did after arriving (and eating lunch prepared by Gio and hassling with our lost luggage) was to go snorkelling. Gio took us to Champagne Beach. It is called this because of the underwater volcanic vents that emit small bubbles so that one feels as if one is in a very large glass of champagne, although most such glasses don't have fish swimming around in them.

We used Nature Island Divers in Soufriere for our diving. There are 3 recommended dive companies on Dominica. This is one of them.

We had two dive masters, Wiffy and Oscar. Both are excellent. They and the boat crew provided the most relaxed diving I've ever done. Oscar and Wiffy are excellent at finding the hard to find animals.

The location of Nature Island Divers means that the boat trips to the dive sites are anywhere from 1 minute to 10 minutes. There is a small sandwich shop next door for between dive break.

A good photograph based reference for denizens of tropical reefs is Florent's Guide to the Tropical Reefs. It was particularly helpful with sponges for which I do not have a very good book.

Calibishie Bay, Atlantic Coast

Calibishie Bay, Atlantic Coast

Ref: 2007C_0590
We travelled up the Atlantic coast of Dominica a couple of times - once to pick up Rob at Melville Hall Airport; the other as part of a trip around the island. The Atlantic side is wind swept, wave swept, and has cooler water than the Caribbean side. It does make for some spectacular scenery. Swimming wasn't much of an option.
Ginger? Flower

Ginger? Flower

Ref: 2007C_0126
One of our side trips was to the Papillote Gardens. It is very near Trafalgar Falls - we walked from the Trafalgar Falls parking lot to the gardens. They have a nice restaurant, which makes for a good lunch break between visiting the falls and the gardens. We then spent the afternoon wandering the gardens.
Vanilla Beans!

Vanilla Beans!

Ref: 2007C_1066
To get to Dominica, we travelled through Point-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe. We had to stay overnight both times so had enough time to wander through the local market and around parts of the old town. The market in Place de la Victoire had lots of spices and preserves for sale. We stocked up on vanilla beans. It is amazing seeing big boxes of them when one is used to buying them individually packaged in a test tube.

Besides a caption, each picture has further description.

None of the pictures are large enough to make good 4x6 prints. If you want to print any of these, please send me the reference numbers (reference numbers at lower right of pictures or lower middle of toenails) of the pictures and I can send you (or put on the web) big enough ones for printing.

All images are copyrighted by Alan Covington unless noted as otherwise. You may use Alan's images for personal or educational purposes without restriction. Please let me know if you do at covingta@cuug.ab.ca. For information about using these images commercially please contact Alan at covingta@cuug.ab.ca.