Belize 2003 - Tobacco Caye

The bus trip from Belmopan to Dangriga was quite entertaining. Everyone on the bus was in a holiday spirit. The bus PA system belted out country golden oldies, which seemed to fit the scenery and spirit.

When we arrived in Dangriga, a fellow helped us with our bags to a taxi. At which point a very vocal dispute arose between the fellow who helped us and some other taxi drivers. We asked our driver what was going on. He said that the guy who helped us never gives the other drivers fares because he doesn't like how they drive - too fast and carelessly for him. Our driver's pace fitted Dangriga's laid back style.

When we had arranged to stay at Lana's on the Reef, we were told to get Captain Buck to ferry us over to Tobacco Caye. Our driver drove us down to where the boats for Tobacco Caye leave. We got out to talk with some fellows that were hanging around - our driver probably recognized one of them as a boat captain. The fellows told us that Captain Buck was gone for the day. The other captain then asked Lisa if her name was Lisa. He had been told by Captain Buck to pick us up. All of this by just telling Kat at Lana's that we would be arriving that day. Lana's did not take a deposit, just our word that we would be arriving. It had made us nervous, but it worked out well.

Tobacco Caye is a good place to just relax, snorkel, eat, read, drink, dive, and snooze in a hammock. It is only about two hectares so walking around it takes about 20 minutes at an island pace. There are five motels/guest-houses on the island and a one or two private residences. The rest is covered in coconut palms with a few mangroves on the eastern edge. When one first arrives, it seems cluttered with buildings. Once one gets to know what's what, it is just fine.

It's a Tough Life on Tobacco Caye Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1359

There were a few small flocks of Black Turnstones on the island. I was trying to get a shot or two of them as they are not very wary, when a group of kids came along and wondered what I was doing. One of them, George, wanted me to take his picture.

Black Turnstones Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1364 George Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1365a

There were many pelicans. The one in the picture is in chick feeding plummage. They would crash into the water under the docks, which was very startling if one was sitting on the dock engrossed in ones book.

Brown Pelican Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1366

We had intended to go on a dive the second day we were there, but the oil for the boat had not arrived on the supply boat so we didn't. One has to accept island pace. The following day we dove once with Eric, the local divemaster. He matched island pace and our diving style well. Before we even started our dive, we were treated to the sight of a young green turtle who swam past our boat. Eric, who was normally relaxed and calm, got very excited over seeing the turtle putting his mask on and hanging over the edge of the boat to watch it.

Diving with Eric was wonderful. He is a slow and calm diver and notices animals and points them out to us. For once, I didn't have to catch up with the group after taking pictures. He found us a young Spot-nosed Drum (picture to come soon, I hope), which is a small 3cm fish with a 5cm dorsal fin. They hang out in small caves, swimming around in circles with their dorsal fin following in a sine wave. The whole world under water is something out of a Dr. Suess book, say, On Beyond Zebra.

Reef's End Restaurant Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1371

Sundowner Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1379

Sunset from the Dock Small Medium Full Ref: 2003-1380

The trip back from Tobacco Caye to Belize City was interesting with local colour. One beautiful woman boarded relatively near to Belize City. It seemed that most of the young men on board and those that boarded afterwards knew her - one way or another, or wanted to.

We had one stop that wasn't to pick up anyone. It was to allow a few of the revellers to relieve their bladders. Some of the people in the bus made some comments to the young lads, which seemed to amuse people. It was in Creole and went by very quickly so I didn't have a chance to understand it.

Lisa asked the bus driver where we should get off to get a cab to the airport. One of the riders overhear her. He came back and talked to us. It turned out that he was a cab driver and would give us a good price to the airport because his home was in the direction of the airport. He had lived through Hurricane Hattie in Belize City. He told us about his life - cab driver and car dealer (buy cars in the USA and drive them to Belize to sell) amongst other things. Crossing borders with a car to sell is much harder since the terrorist attack on NYC. We arrived at the airport with lots of time to change into warmer clothes and prepare for our reintroduction to the cold and dry. Less than 24 hours after we left warm, moist air, we were skating on a frozen river.